LOBSTER

EL BIZCOCHO RESTAURANT

Lots to talk about on this dish. It all started out with trying to prefect a Chinese shrimp and lobster chip. The same kind you can find in the Asian markets. "Why" you ask, "why not", we have had these kinds of snacks for years but have you ever made them. It pretty easy and the end results make you feel a little more connected. The shrimp and lobster roe paste is combined with the tapioca starch, rolled into a sticky dough ball and wrapped in cheese cloth, then steamed. It’s removed from the steamer and removed from the cheese cloth. Let the reddish pink log dry in a refrigerated environment for a few days. Once hardened it can be cut and dehydrated to a clear chip. Or you can cut it into strips and dehydrate. Once dehydrated it is fried in 400 degree oil until it puffs.
Stone fruit was coming in beautiful when this idea was born so I decided to slow pouch a peach in Pernod, white balsamic and lemon oil. What resulted was a liquorish, tart but sweet peach with vibrant red and white flesh. It was a match made in heaven with the Pernod slow poached lobster tail, but one question remained, "what was the sauce base for the dish going to be"? Then it hit me "CURRY", spicy, sweet, aromatic blend of spices. Lobster, peach, curry....yes!
We added sweet corn blanks, finger potatoes, zucchini, zucchini flowers, pistachio crumbs, caviar and tapioca lobster crispy.

SHRIMP CHIP:
1 lb Net weight of shelled-shrimp, prawns or lobster , 1 lb Tapioca flour, 1 oz Salt , 1 ts , White pepper powder, 1 c Water, I think there is one step left out of the process. If I were making this I would pound the shrimp to a paste before adding them to the rest of the ingredients. This book is quite interesting, but the translation leaves a bit to be desired. The recipe intrigues me, but I've never actually gotten around to trying it out. You can make your own home made shrimp chips with which no one can compare. Here is the recipe for non-commercial shrimp chips. Bring water to a boil and dissolve salt and pepper powder. Pour boiling water onto the tapioca flour in a large mixing bowl and stir quickly with a cooking spoon. Add in the shrimp and knead as dough. As the water content of the shrimp is unpredictable, you may adjust it by adding more boiling water. The dough should be on the hard side. Now shape into a cylinder about 1 inch in diameter. If you do not have the proper steamer for this process, a bamboo rack or cake cooling rack will do. Lay cheesecloth underneath and on top of the dough and place it on the rack. Make sure the cylinders of dough are far enough apart (at least 1 1/2 inch if space permits) to prevent them from sticking together. Steam at a high temperature for 45 minutes. Make sure there is plenty of water in the steamer to avoid having to open it to add more water. After steaming, bring out, remove the cheesecloth, and cool the dough on another rack. Keep in a cool place to dry. The time varies from 1 day to 2 or 3 days. If you can cut it with a very sharp knife, then start to cut it in thin slices (about the thickness of a penny). Now lay the slices on a piece of cardboard and dry in the sun until brittle. Don't hurry the drying before you cut them. You can store them indefinitely in a can. When you want to use them, calculate 2 or 3 chips per person. Deep fry in oil at 400F temperature. If the process has been done correctly, the chips will be done in a matter of seconds. They will increase their size several times. Drain and serve.

ABALONE

Abalone, chorizo, razor clams, octopus, hama hama oyster, charred ramps, NZ cockles, agar sherry vinegar, sea beans, preserved lemon, romesco sauce.

SWEET ONION, GOLDEN EGG

Sweet onion soup, golden slow egg, manchego cheese, chive. Best onion soup I've ever had. The recipe is my Sous Chef Alaun's. people go nuts over it.

RAVIOLO

Pyramid ravioli with Italian fontina cheese, black truffles, truffle butter.

ASPARAGUS

This is the scallop dish that was replaced with a more seasonal rabbit and scallop dish. Asparagus are on their way out of season, but we wanted to show it to you anyway. The dish consisted of fresh scallops, shaved asparagus, hen of the woods mushrooms, toasted sesame seed powder, asparagus consume.

HEIRLOOM TOMATO

Heirloom tomatoes, balsamic onion jam, tomato gelee, tomato cells, burrata mozzarella, melon, lemon dew, nasturtium, basil, corn pudding.

SPOT PRAWN

Santa Barbra spot prawns, avocado, uni, yuzu fluid gel, preserved lemon, micro cilantro, tapioca,

WHO'S RESPONSIBLE

http://www.bertrandatmisteras.com/pdf/Chefs_Hall_O_Fame2.pdf

Team at the Time: (From the left) Justin Woodward, Edgar Beas, Thomas Shibley, Judd Canepari, William Geiger, James Ricker.

Its no secret that staff comes and goes and some of these cooks are on their way to continue their careers. The time they spend at El Bizcocho will be one of many mile-stones. We look forward to new talent and say good luck to seasoned veterans of our kitchen. "All that pass are welcome back". JC

"HARE" OF THE RABBIT part II

Remember the earlier post we were working on a rabbit dish. Something that would bring land and sea together and have a little pre -autumn feel to it. We brought in some wild smoked trout roe from Oregon. Devils Gulch Ranch whole rabbits from Nacasio California, live scallops from the PNW, and New Zealand green lip cockles. We added some beautiful chanterelle mushrooms and nasturtium. We use transgultaminase “food glue" to wrap the rabbit belly around the tenderloins. Add some compressed fennel and cured rabbit belly bacon and you have a perfectly balanced plate. It went on the menu last night. This idea was an inspiration from a dish that I was doing in Connecticut with rabbit and cockles which at the time was a combination that not many had attempted.

Ahi Melon

Frozen watermelon or Ahi?? Lots of possibilities with this. Take it the next few steps. Freeze it, thaw it, freeze it, and thaw it. You'll have a hard time telling the difference between your melon and Ahi sashimi. Texture, appearance and plate presentation. The liquid that drains off the watermelon, save it and use in reverse specification.

PAPARAZZI

Paparazzi......... "I live in uniform". Their isn't an occasion that I haven't shown up in uniform. I'm always coming from or going to work. I'm sure you all can relate. I have a distant relative by marriage from Hungary visiting the United States, he asked this question the other night. "Why don't you go and try out for a T.V. show and become famous". I told him that "I love food not fame" and if food gives me fame than that would be great; I'm just going to keep cooking and if the fame comes to find me I'll be ready. I think people just assume because of reality television that you’re going to be rich and famous if you’re a Chef and have a personality. What I can say I haven't meet to many chefs without a personality. The reality of his suggestion is far from the  reality of our culinary stage.

BETTER BUTTER

Butter Tasting, with our house made breads

House made butter below and signature butters above

We haven't only stuck to the cheese making. We've ventured into a "better butter" as well. I must say though there is an amazing selection of butter from all over the world that can have you busy tasting for days. We bring in butter from Italy "Parmigiano Reggiano" Maotanari & Gruzza, the Czech Republic 82+ and cultured butter from Vermont. We of course blend and add our own special touches to the butter to make them significant to El Biz. That doesn't stop us from make our own from scratch.

1-2 cups heavy whipping cream, or double cream (1/3 liter) (preferably without carrageenan or other stabilizers)
Fit food processor with plastic blade, whisk, or normal chopping blade. Fill food processor about 1/4 - 1/2 full. Blend. The cream will go through the following stages: Slushy, frothy, soft whipped cream, firm whipped cream, coarse whipped cream. Then, suddenly, the cream will seize, its smooth shape will collapse, and the whirring will change to sloshing. The butter is now fine grained bits of butter in buttermilk, and a few seconds later, a glob of yellowish butter will separate from milky buttermilk. Drain the buttermilk.
You can eat the butter now -- it has a light taste -- though it will store better if you wash and work it. Add 1/2 cup (100 mL) of ice-cold water, and blend further. Discard wash water and repeat until the wash water is clear. Now, work butter to remove suspended water. Either place damp butter into a cool bowl and knead with a potato masher or two forks; or put in large covered jar and shake or tumble. Continue working, pouring out the water occasionally, until most of the water is removed. The butter is now ready. Put butter in a butter crock, ramekins, or roll in waxy freezer paper
Culture the cream before churning. Add a few tablespoons (50 mL) store-bought cultured yogurt, buttermilk, sour cream, clabbered cream, or crème fraiche, and let sit about 12 hours at warm room temperature (75°F/24°C is ideal) to thicken and ferment before churning. It should taste delicious, slightly sour, with no aftertaste. If it is bubbly, or smells yeasty or gassy, discard.
Use some butter making tools, such as a churn, paddle for working, or molds for forming the finished butter.

BRIE

It all started out with making Farm House Cheddar. This was a bit intense because I didn't have the press to get the cheese curds pressed properly. A homemade tourniquet press with pots pans and towels was all I could come up with. This cheese was a  smelly mess and short lived endeavor. I then really started to dive into the whole science of cheese making to see which cheese would work best. Something that doesn't need pressing, doesn't need a cheese cave to age in. "Brie", although a harder cheese to make than most, this was the cheese of choice; besides the fact that I was embarking on a journey of making the "Holy Grail" of French cheese. I was paying homage to the masters of French cuisine. Let’s just say that it was no joke and if you think by looking at a recipe on the Internet and you’re going to make great cheese is laughable. I left work many a nights smelling like day old milk and covered with curd bits. I would work into the night to find the perfect balance of calcium lactate, rennet and a magical blend of yeast cultures. Heat, no heat move the curds, don't move the curds, cut the curds don't cut the curds!!!....Oh MY GOD. Like all things, if your love for the exploration of food is greater than the desire to throw in the oven mitt than you will reach the promised land. Cheesy Success!! "Brie", the cloud like appearance as the cultures take hold, a sweet smell of ripening curds and the final smooth creamy texture that can only be achieved with hard work and patience. I am now looking on what we can do to add the extra wow factor. Maybe brandy grape leafs or apple wood ash, perhaps adding a bleu culture vain, I have yet to open the creative treasure chest. I have also been successful making Feta, Queso Fresco, and Bleu Cheese.

Rennet, Calcium, Cultures

Heat cream, milk to 89 degrees

Remove from heat and add the calcium and culture, stir. Add rennet, stir and let set one hour

Check for a clean break. Shouldn't stick to your fingers.

Cut the curd and let the whey drain off. 15 to 20 minutes

Strain curd in cheese cloth and have cheese basket ready.

Place curd in cheese basket lined with cheese cloth and let drain over night at room temp. Keep covered

Once they drain half their original size place on plastic or bamboo mat to activate the culture around 52-65 degree, clean, dry area. Keep covered.

I keep them in a pizza proof box with a metal drying rack underneath. I found a bamboo place mat work fantastic

Allow them to set for 24 hours before placing them in controlled 42 degree dry refrigeration. I place a cup of water in the box top give the moisture needed. Let culture do its thing for 4 to 6 weeks. You should see that very distinct white fuzz growing on top, after a few days. It's like watching your babies grow. We have many variations of this process that can make all kinds of house made brie.

"HARE" OF THE RABBIT

Coming up with a new dish using rabbit, you would think is an easy under taking. The process is quite the opposite. We go through extensive period of dish development. Only until I and my senior culinary staff have made a unanimous "yes" on all components of a dish does it reach the menu. Many times we have dishes in different stages of completion with anticipation of the change of seasons. The picture is rabbit in different application from Devils Gulch Ranch. They are a combination of three breeds: Rex, New Zealand and Californian. Californian and New Zealand breeds are related and currently are the most popular commercial meat breeds due to their fast growth. The Rex breed, while being an excellent meat breed, is particularly known for its fine fur. Ours seem to have a mellower temperament, which is helpful for their mothering ability and handling in general. While they grow somewhat less quickly than the New Zealand and Californian breeds, Devils Gulch Ranch uses the Rex to add hybrid vigor and positive temperament characteristics. Additionally, some feel that the meat from Rex rabbits is firmer and better flavored than that of the other meat breeds, which could be due to the Rex's slower growth. Turns out none passed the test but one and it was the one thing I thought was going to be a waste of time. Rabbit belly with maple sugar and smoked salt. It was delicious, crispy, and a huge surprise considering I tried to kill it in the deep fat fryer.

FIRST ZUCCHINI

" Who Hates The Plant", Not Mr Juan Guerrero

"The most interesting man in the world", and our farmer/Director of stewarding

HERBACEOUS

RBI FARMS HERB GARDEN.

Lemon Thyme, Cilantro, Marjoram, Mint, Tarragon, Chive and Basil, Rosemary, Lavender.

SOPRESSATA

Our House Made Salumi

"By the hand"

We pay homage to the American grand master of hand crafted salumi, Mr. Paul Bertolli. We have been making our own salumi for the last 6 months and have had relatively good success, although we don't have the facilities to make it perfect. If you really want to get it done than start reading, it's no joke. I guess I could show you a generic picture of me on a stool pouring liquid Nitrogen into the grinder to keep things cold down. Covered with sausage, plunging like a mad man but I'll save you the image. Trust me when I say we give sweat, blood and tears for our craft, it’s the truth .Come see me at the El Biz and I'll give you a slice with some house made baguette. It’s pretty darn good. But we stand on the shoulders of giants. There is an old biblical phrase that states.

"As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another". thks TC

Purple Tongue

"HUCKLEBERRIES"

In season and looking fresh and beautiful, Cant wait to make some dishes. We're looking at adding them to an existing dish of chicken liver, cherries, coffee and lavender mustard. I'll attach picture of the dish soon.

Sake, Sake, Sake!!!

Fermentation with air lock
My label

SAKE.......Even the word itself makes me think of century’s old master samurai brewing rice wine with a thousand year old Zen master brewing technique. A slow and pain staking process that is more about patience and mental fortitude than it is to culinary genius, a process that was most likely started by peasant farmers putting old fermenting rice to good use. I must say that sake is easy and hard at the same time. It is easy to read the recipe, but impressively hard to get proper ingredients. Anyone can put rice in a jar with sugar yeast and sherry culture, but can you make true Sake. I found that to make it right you need to do your homework, but you also have to crack the tight lipped Japanese Sake brewing community to get the good stuff. Koji Kin spores. 50%-70% milled Yamada Nishiki rice, Sake yeast and the purest water you can fine. I almost gave up a few times, but my inner samurai kept telling me don't give up. Yes, tight lipped is what I am going to be about how I got to my first successful bottle of Sake. I named it Heart and Soul; as well as shūji that in an ancient Japanese script on the bottle. Sweet, semi clear and flavorful Sake is what is was able to make. I am not saying that mine is as good as the time held sake brewing tradition in Japan, but my smile is as big as theirs after drinking it. The Japanese proverb says, "It's not the time spent getting from the start to the finish, but it is the appreciation of the time in between". I now have a greater appreciation for the Junmui daiginjo Sake which is only .5% of all the sake produced in Japan. If you want to take it to the next level there is Ginga Shizuku "Divine Droplets" sake that are drip pressed in an igloo outside in only cretin times of the year. Too bad it doesn't snow in San Diego or you would have a picture of me and my igloo drip pressing my next patch. Until then we don't sell it to the public or I'd be the next generation moonshine. We give it away as a compliment with our Japanese influenced dishes. Don't expect it when you come. The last patch is gone and it takes 3 to 4 months to make. But if you’re among the lucky ones when the brewing is complete, you'll be able to sample my SAKE, Nectar of the gods.

Tartufo Nero

Bring on the Albas' in everyone Can’t sleep. We Make a Fonduta Ravioli with Shaved black truffles, truffle infused beurre monte, and shaved black truffle. A dish that was an inspiration from my Executive Sous Chefs time working in San Francisco. Thank you Nancy Oaks for what can't be made better.

El Biz and Veranda

For those of you that haven't seen our restaurants and ballroom .El biz on the top left, Veranda on the right and the newly built Aragon Ballroom below. We're back to work tomorrow and the fun begins. Food, food, Saki and more food.